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Lunching with Drug Lords in Lazarat

On the tip of my toes, wavering on the rim of the toilet seat I struggled to find my balance. One slip and I’d have a disaster on my hands, in more ways than one. I reached as high as I could and...

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Getting Out of Tirana: Day Tripping in the Mountains

Albania’s noisy, chaotic capital get get a bit overwhelming at times and I can understand why many residents choose to get out of the city on the weekends. Tourists might want to follow their lead and...

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3 Day Trips from Saranda Plus 1 Crazy Side Trip

Admittedly, my article on day trips from Tirana is unlikely to inspire anyone to go. The mountains are gorgeous of course but there are better places to experience them than tourist town Kruja and...

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50 Photos to Tempt to You to Visit Albania

Since my first visit to Albania in 2000 I’ve seen the country develop from what was often cited as “the poorest country in Europe” to an increasingly popular tourist destination. Most visitors head to...

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Is It Safe to Travel to Albania?

Since returning from an extended stay in Albania and publishing my guide to visiting the country, I’ve been receiving regular emails from readers wanting to know more. Surprisingly, for me, one of the...

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Tirana’s Skanderbeg Square: All Shiny and New

In 2001, on my first trip to Albania, I remember Tirana’s main square as a dark, dingy park crawling with dodgy looking men with huge rolls of cash stuffed in their trousers. I was sure I was about to...

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Durres to Istanbul: Hiking the 1,000 km Via Egnatia

I said a few years ago I’d never return to Albania. I’d been so many times I figured that was enough, there are other places I want to see and Albania isn’t even one of my favourite destinations. Yet...

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Via Egnatia: Durres to Golem

On my first visit to Durres in 2000, much of the coastal area was lined with pine trees and clean sandy beaches. There wasn’t much going on but it was rustic and relatively untouched, at least towards...

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Things to Do in Korca: My New Fave Albanian City

There are few cities in Albania I’ve yet to visit and the only remaining city I was curious about was Korca in the south-east. Since we were nearby in Ohrid, this was my chance to visit and I’m so...

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Beach Time: Where to Stay on the Albanian Riviera

While travelling around Albania this summer, I realised my Albania travel guide has become quite outdated (an update is in the works!). Albania is developing rapidly and even though my thoughts on...

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